The Pleasures of Pomegranate
Restaurant Review by Melanie Jennings
copyright 2003 All Rights Reserved

El Cajon Boulevard at Texas Street is turning into an international gourmet ghetto. If you like the cuisines of Ethiopia, Vietnam, Japan, and Lebanon, and bar hopping that ranges from the indie scene of Livewire to the piano bar of the Red Fox Room, then get thee to the neighborhood’s newest addition, Pomegranate, a Russian-Georgian culinary gem.

In keeping with the international background of its neighbors, Pomegranate boasts a decidedly multicultural staff. Manager Marko Zhukov is Georgian; chef Paul Skorepa is American of (at least) Bohemian and Czech descent; his assistant, Tanya Makarevich, is Ukrainian; and server Elvira (pronounced El-veer-a) is Latvian. The dining room reflects this cultural mix as its walls are decorated with the written messages of customers. On any given night you can read greetings from previous diners written in Chinese, Japanese, Farsi, Russian, Italian–and, oh yeah, English. If you’re in the mood to chat, sit at Marko’s table in the back corner and he may treat you to a literary analysis of these messages from international well-wishers. And don’t miss the collection of corkscrews dug into the drywall near the kitchen (bring your own and stab it in with gusto). While these quirks of the décor are fun and charming, it’s the food that’ll keep you coming back.

I quizzed the staff about their favorite dishes on the menu. The chef loves the chakapuli (juicy braised lamb), but seems most proud of his smoked trout. Ask him about it and he gets excited. He smokes it himself in a process that takes several days. The trout comes from Northern California and his supplier is trained to give him first dibs on a shipment (or risk losing a hand). Marko likes the okroshka (a creamy, cold soup), the pilaf, and the chanaki (spicy lamb stew). "And," he says, "it’s a crime to have the chakapuli without a glass of wine." Tanya’s specialties are the epitome of Mom’s cooking, Ukrainian style. She likes the vareniki, which she explained (with Marko translating), is something women serve to family and friends on Sundays after church. Her other favorite, the golubsi (beef-filled cabbage rolls), is considered fast comfort food. She makes it either Russian or Ukrainian style depending, Marko says, on who wins their weekly argument about it.

I’ve been several times now and I’ve tried just about every appetizer, a few entrees, and three desserts. My favorites are the potato-onion vareniki with sour cream (UNbelievable), the sliced radish salad, the radish greens salad, pkhali (roasted eggplant salad), the shiitake mushroom pilaf, and the ajap sandali (a stew of rich and deep flavors). While I can make these recommendations, I think the best approach is to inform Elvira that you love food and request that she and the chef simply bring you whatever’s best that night. This strategy recently rewarded my guest and I with a plate of six salads, amazingly flaky and rich cheese-tomato pies (khachapuri), the smoked trout, and chicken tabaka. The spicy tang of the chicken tabaka comes from a pomegranate-molasses glaze that also keeps the meat juicy. For dessert, my money goes to Tanya’s incredible honey-walnut cake and Babushka’s surprise, a chilled baked apple stuffed with walnuts, raisins, and dried apricots. If you like adventure, try to the Toad Sweat Ice Cream and wash it down with a spicy Blenheim Ginger Ale (and prepare for sneezing as the ginger ale is positively fiery).

Pomegranate rounds out a neighborhood developing into a global culinary tour. The gracious staff and excellent food are sure to keep Pomegranate around for a long time to come. Do yourself a favor and check it out.

Located at 2302 El Cajon Blvd. (between Texas and Louisiana Streets), Pomegranate is open nightly for dinner and "closed haphazardly". 619-297-4007

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