writersmonthly.com- A Review of Mille Fleurs Restaurant San Diego, by Melanie Jennings, Mille Fluers a San Diego restaurant review by Melanie Jennings, Mille Fleurs Restaurant San Diego chef Martin Woesle

With numerous awards to its credit, Mille Fleurs is consistently rated one of the best restaurants in San Diego county, inspiring pilgrimages to Rancho Santa Fe by San Diegans and tourists alike. Such a journey is well worth it for the opportunity to taste German-born Chef Martin Woesle’s classic French-meets-California creations.

Mille Fleurs is nestled in the estate-like grounds of a small village where you may catch locals clip-clopping past on horseback beneath the plentiful eucalyptus trees. Owned by Frenchman, Bertrand Hug, Mille Fleurs transports you to what feels like a secluded hideaway in a 1924 Spanish-style adobe structure. The candlelit outdoor patio and elegantly appointed indoor dining rooms are decorated with tile murals, fireplaces, and solid looking furniture which contribute to the restaurant’s traditional yet relaxing atmosphere. It’s easy to see why proposals, promotions, and anniversaries are celebrated at Mille Fleurs.

But a meal at Mille Fleurs does not have to be saved for a special occasion. If you want fresh, seasonal food prepared with the expert touches of a master chef, Mille Fleurs should not be missed. That said, we were pleasantly surprised by the care the staff took in making us feel comfortable. Far from the stuffed shirts of an older generation, servers here are gracious and warm. (When confronted with a utensil I didn’t recognize, our server skillfully explained its use without making me feel like a hayseed). What’s more, everyone is clearly passionate about Chef Woesle’s repertoire.

"Farm fresh" is not a cliché at Mille Fleurs. Chef Woesle begins each day at forty-acre Chino Farm just up the road. Woesle creates a unique daily menu from these ripe, organic selections. What you’ll find on the menu any given day is what’s in season in San Diego county. There’s simply no better way to eat. This focus on fresh, regional fruits and vegetables is what makes Mille Fleurs a truly top-notch establishment. It’s no wonder the James Beard Foundation honored Woesle with the distinction of one of the Great Regional Chefs in America.

You can order from the menu or choose the Chef’s tasting menu, which is a specially-selected seven-course meal. Whatever route you choose, pay attention to the appetizers. They are particularly delicious at Mille Fleurs. Memorable was the lobster salad with avocado and papaya drizzled with a Meyer lemon dressing–lobster so fresh and delicate makes you swear you’ll never go back to those impostors you’ve been served over the years. A light green bean salad featured divine, melt-in-your-mouth bundnerfleisch (a salt-cured beef thinly sliced), while the gravlax was just plain clever with its spotlight on eggs: green and orange fish roe, Caspian caviar, and a poached chicken egg.

For entrees, Woesle excels with fish. The monkfish, sauteed and served on a bed of tender and aromatic fennel, was buttery as lobster. Paired with a pinot noir suggested by our server, I was struck by the overall richness and depth of flavors. (The wine list is incredible; if you’re overwhelmed, the servers can expertly pair wines with each course). For meat lovers, you’ll find somewhat unusual items like squab and venison gorgeously and creatively prepared. The venison featured delicate chantrelles and a juniper berry sauce. A vegetarian option showcased portabella mushrooms and garlic over ravioli.

Preferring to conceive and execute desserts himself, Chef Woesle’s dessert menu includes classics such as crème brulee and chocolate mousse, a cheese plate, and selections featuring seasonal fruits. The poached Mission figs beneath a small tower of puff pastry and surrounded by black currant sauce with a dollop of crème fraiche lingered in my memory for days afterward.

A trip to Mille Fleurs makes one appreciate fine ingredients prepared by a chef who is clearly passionate about and inspired by the region in which he lives. Mille Fleurs deserves its long-standing reputation as the best restaurant in San Diego.

Mille Fleurs Restaurant is located at 6009 Paseo Delicias Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067

>>Back to top<<