Everything you’ve heard about Chive is true. It’s wonderful.
This modern bistro has earned well-deserved attention since it opened. And while it’s trendy, chic, and even a little glamorous, food is the real star at Chive. Located at 558 Fourth Avenue in the Gaslamp Quarter, Chive’s beckoning green sign greets eager diners looking for classic American fare enlivened by seasonal ingredients and unique combinations.

Chef A.J. Voytko has a baby face, but the sophistication of his dishes suggests experience, talent, and skill. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu’s Portland campus, Voytko cut his teeth at The Tree Room at the Sundance Resort followed by a stretch at George’s at the Cove. Earlier this year he joined Chive. Soon after, he earned an invitation to cook at the James Beard House as one of their "rising stars". Behold, San Diego, we have here some serious food and talent.

Chive is a study in opposites. Step inside and you’re immediately taken with the brushed metal accents, the orange lava-lamp glow of the bar, and their signature neon green leading your eye to the farthest reaches of the dining room. Chive’s sparse and modern accents–both in the dining room and on the patio–provide a nice contrast to the casual friendliness of the staff and the warm and delicious food that comes out of the kitchen. These were the first of many paired opposites we noticed throughout our meal.

Arrive thirsty and let the bar whet your whistle with their imaginative cocktails. Orange lovers will appreciate the Grand Squeeze martini–over the top with a blood orange, Grand Marnier, and orange juice. If you’re in the mood for something more classic but with a twist, try the Bleu Horizon–Bombay sapphire gin with a gorgonzola-stuffed olive. While you’re pretending to be a rock star, check out the bussers’s uniforms: cleverly designed black t-shirts with the simple statement, "YUM," printed across the front in that striking Chive-green. You can even buy panties and boxer shirts sporting a similar design. Bottoms up!

Thirst quenched, you’ll be hungry, of course. Watch again for the paired opposites–Chef Voytko skillfully plays with crunchy/smooth textures, hot/cold temperatures, and provocative flavors. Take the roasted baby beets accompanied by a goat cheese fondant appetizer, for example. The fondant provides a rich and smooth background to the bite of the marinated fennel and the subtle sweetness of the beets. The duck spring rolls feature a crispy wrapper against the duck’s warm richness, and finished off by the cool, moist sweetness of a bed of cubed cantaloupe. We tried the spring rolls with a velvety Husch pinot noir. You’ll find your server knowledgeable about wines and willing to suggest appropriate selections.

For entrees, life doesn’t get any better than Voytko’s signature dish, the spice-crusted lamb loin. The depth and layers of flavor here are striking, particularly the lamb jus with Medjool dates. The trout also pairs opposites, this time a crisp skin with juicy-tender flesh, and sweet golden raisins against tart balsamic vinaigrette. The Hawaiian red rice rounds out the dish with a welcome, chewy texture. Desserts also offered contrasts in the form of a strawberry tart with chocolate mint and an unusual balsamic reduction.

The service is cooperative. Several servers made sure we were taken care of throughout the meal. As courses arrived we were impressed that each server was able and eager to thoroughly explain the dish. The staff seemed well trained and interested in the great food they serve.

San Diego is lucky to have A.J. Voytko. His interpretations of American classics are inventive and well executed. Local and visiting food lovers alike will voice no opposition to the many charms of Chive.